Quieter than Levi, longer ski season, around 300 km of maintained cross-country tracks through a national park.
62 slopes on two sides of the fell and the longest downhill runs in Finland: over three kilometres from the treeless top to the valley, a 464-metre drop. Ski buses link both villages to the lifts.
Around 300 kilometres of maintained tracks wind through the national park forests, more than 30 of them lit for the dark months. Pick a trail café as your destination and ski there for coffee.
Finland’s most visited national park begins at the village edge. The Kellokas visitor centre, on the road between the two villages, is the natural first stop for trail maps and exhibitions.
One fell, two villages, and the choice matters more than the map suggests, because they sit on opposite sides of it. Ski buses link both to the lifts, so neither is cut off, but crossing between them is a journey rather than a stroll.
Slopes run down both sides of the fell and about three hundred kilometres of tracks run through the forest around it. Decide which of the two you will use more before you pick an address, because the fell itself is in between.
Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park begins where the villages end, and a cabin on that edge has the trailhead at the door. The Kellokas visitor centre, on the road between the two villages, is where to pick up maps first.